Audrey
Sutherland on Preparation: The Key For Going It Alone...Or In A Group
First published in "Lifeline." Revised by Audrey Sutherland Spring 2000
for TopKayaker.net
Many of us take off on the "inspiration"
Audrey Sutherland offers and leave behind the "preparation." This article
is a reminder that whether it be the rocky tropical coasts of Moloka'I
or the icy waters of Alaska even Audrey Sutherland doesn't venture out
on any paddle with out thoroughly researching and studying all the resources
available on the area. This is just one of many shelves in Audrey's
home showing the books available for the novice as well as the pro on
kayaklng and proper survival techniques in the outdoors. What follows
are her comments:
I've
paddled over 8,000 miles in Alaska, ...every summer for the past 20
years.
An inflatable is my preference ... something I can take with
me instead of having to ship a boat over or leave a boat up there. It
has to be a weight I can carry, because I go solo.
My boat weighs 30 lbs. and folds up to one and a half cubic feet.
A new, lighter, faster boat is being designed in New Zealand. Audrey
at Port Hardy, B.C. handmade spray deck Photo by Eiko Jones
People
need to develop their skills. In preparation, I put on my boots and
foul weather gear...all the stuff that I would be wearing in Alaska,
and put all my equipment in the boat: tent, tarps, sleeping bag, food
.... everything just as I would for Alaska, and took it out here (her
ocean front home) in some surf with strong winds, dumped the boat, righted
it, climbed back in, and came ashore.
Took it out again, dumped it,
righted it, climbed back in ...until I could do it ten times out of
ten; until I could realize which systems were working and which ones
weren't. Audrey in front of her home in Hawaii,
Photo by Mike Waggoner
Then, when I went to Alaska in 1981, a fishing boat dumped me on my
second trip there. I didn't capsize again until 1984, because of wave
conditions and surf. The boat had a load on it which made it top heavy,
but through the routine that I taught myself in my own familiar waters,
I was back in the boat in 23 seconds, paddled ashore, got into some dry
clothes, and drank my thermos of hot tea.
It's practice and preparation.
They are the key.
I think I am safer going alone because I know what I can do and I don't
exceed it. I don't have to rescue anybody else. I go at my Own pace. Before
I head out, this is specifically in Alaska, which supposedly is more dangerous,
I've got the (ocean) charts and I know three different places where I
might come in and camp that night. So the first one may be only five miles,
the next one may be ten miles, and the third 25 miles; so I at least have
some alternatives; but I know that I can come ashore if things get bad,
or I can turn back.
Sometimes when I'm going on a big crossing, say twelve miles, I go out
for one half hour and see what the situation looks like. The night before,
I study the currents. When I look at the charts I see that the tide will
be moving this way and I want to land over here, so do all my homework
ahead of time.
In Alaska I often paddle every other day so that if I come in late I
can get a good night sleep and get up late the next morning. I spend that
day patching, repairing, studying the chart, writing in a journal; then
I can go to bed early and be ready to paddle the next day. Get prepared
as well as you can. If possible at all do a little bit, the first mile
of it, and come back and say: 'Oh is that what it's like.'
On
the first Molokai trip (Hawaii) I got into more than I planned because
the maps were inadequate at the time and I didn't know a lot about reading
maps either.
The only map available in 1962 was a 1928 map. It was neither
accurate nor was it at a very big scale to see what was really happening...what
it was going to be like. But I knew I could swim five miles with fins,
mask and snorkel. I don't think it was stupid to try, I think I was
uninformed, but as prepared as I could be with the information that
was available at the time. Photo: Moloka'i sea
bird warns kayakers not to get too close by Tom Holtey
After each trip I was able to add more. In Molokai, because the current
and the wind blow west, you can't go back. It's the coast of no return.
Very rarely can you go back up against the wind and the current. Photo
below: North Moloka'i shoreline by Tom Holtey
I could not afford a boat then, so I swam. But before I attempted Molokai,
I had been a beach lifeguard for ten years or so and taught swimming and
water safety instruction courses for a national aquatic school in California.
I taught swimming and life guarding at Catalina Island and taught at a
national aquatic school out in Lake Elsinor.
When I came over here I was
used to swimming in the ocean in California. I was a lifeguard, came here
and in the warm water it was much easier to learn the skills. You could
go out and would not get cold and it was easier to surf and body board.
Being at ease in the water, I think, makes a big difference.
The reason Kayaking was appealing was because I was totally at ease
in the water swimming. Therefore I knew that here in Hawaii where you
weren't going to die of hypothermia (unless you're in the water for many
hours) if nothing else, you could always swim to shore. However, the water
in Hawaii is 74 degrees. If you are sitting up in your boat or you are
on your surfboard wet, a 25-knot wind will bring the wind chill factor
down to 51 degrees and you can die. And there are wind and currents out
there. Incase you dump you want to be wearing fins. I am often wearing
them while I paddle in Hawaii.
Another
thing I use is what I call my 'lifeline.' It is a line permanently looped
for my size over one shoulder and under the opposite arm then clipped
onto a D ring on the side of the boat. The wind can blow your boat away
faster than you can swim so you want to make sure that you and your
boat stay together. Photo left: Two sizes of Lifeline
In surf
if you capsize you do not want to be attached to your boat because then
you are going to get dragged. Both you and your boat are going to come
to shore because the surf is pushing you both in so you are not likely
to lose it totally. And you don't want to be in a situation where you
could have your hard shell boat hit you.
People need to develop their skills. In a club they should give some
practical instruction. I taught kayaking at the University of Hawaii for
16 years. I had 22 classes, a total of 500 students. The teaching was
in all types of kayaks. I was teaching more about kayaking to go some
place to travel. Others have taught it for racing or technique: we all
teach safety.
The first field day was out at Eve Anderson's house in Waimanalo where
all the people who manufacture boats brought them. So we had 30 people
in the class and 30 different kayaks. We had inflatables, racing boats,
surf skis, and open tops.
In the beginning we had a good cross section
of all the kayaks and so people got to take out and try them. They would
take a boat out, paddle it up wind, down wind, cross wind, dump it, right
it, climb back in, come back and get another one; so it was musical chairs
with different boats.
At
the last class I assigned them into about five teams. They had to get
their team out to Mokuauea Island, set up a shelter, and make a meal
out of at least one thing from the islands. If they did all that, then
they got a certificate that said they completed the course, not that
they were competent.
It's pretty hard to guarantee somebody's competence.
In six classes they learned everything for a beginners trip. In my classes
we would talk about how to read a map...what all the lines mean. I'd
pass maps out and ask them, On your particular map where would you launch
and where would you land...where is the surf...what side of the island
are you on? Photo right: Ann McLaren getting tips
on reading ocean charts
Often on club paddles everyone spreads out. They should make sure that
they have a lead paddler and a sweep paddler and that you stay within
talking distance, even if they have to have radios so you can talk back
and forth.
The commercial outfitters insist on safety because they're
legally responsible, whereas the purpose of the club is just to enjoy
it. But I do think a club often has too big a group. If you're going to
have more then ten people you should divide it up and let each group have
its own lead and sweep or its own agenda... fast group, slow group...etc.
As far as learning to paddle, the best way is one on one. Get a series
of lessons from one then move on to another instructor. I took a water
safety instructors' class from ten different teachers. The first time
I learned 90% more than I knew. The next class I learned 80% more than
I knew.. By the last class I was only learning 10% but that was still
10% new stuff.
Experience leaves little cracks for instruction to fall
into.
~ END
Since this article Audrey has retired from her solo Alaska adventures but continues to kayak at 90 years old, off the shores of her home on the North Shore of Oahu.
 Audrey's
popular book Paddling My Own Canoe, about her Moloka'i adventures inspired critics nation wide with reviews such
as: "...it's a human being's joyous response to, and interaction with,
the forces of nature," or "...one woman's drive to test her limits against
unforgiving elements," and "...a splendid adventure story, proof that
the thrills of surging seas, dangerous cliffs, unknown terrain and isolation
can be found in Hawaii. Paddling Hawaii the guide book of how and where
for kayaking Hawaii. click on the books to go to Tom's TopKayaker Shop
to purchase.
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Audrey Sutherland - Birthday Tributes To A Living Legend 2011 By Mark Rognstad with Gary Budlong, Rusty Lillico & Chuck Ehrhorn - First published in "Lifeline" - Reprinted here with permission of the authors Celebrating her inspiring contributions to kayakers of Hononlulu's kayak club Hui Wa'a Kaukahi - On her 90th birthday!
"Like any kid growing up in Hawaii, I wanted to visit the small islands offshore, but only a few are close enough to swim. I ordered an inflatable raft through the Sears catalog, but with the little plastic oars it was really hard to go upwind. So when Paddling My Own Canoe by Audrey Sutherland came out in 1978, I read it with great interest, and when Audrey gave her first public lecture at the Waikiki Aquarium, I couldn’t miss it. Afterwards, I asked Audrey where I could get one of these inflatable kayaks. J. C. Penny’s used to carry them, she told me, but now you have to go to the mainland to get one.
That summer, Audrey had planned a two-month expedition in Southeast Alaska, from Ketchikan to Skagway, and I took three weeks off from work to paddle part of that route. My new Semperit Dolphin barely arrived before I left – I paddled it for the first time visiting a friend in Santa Barbara on the way to Alaska – and then a few days later was pumping it up on the seaplane dock at the airport in Ketchikan. Audrey gave me a copy of her itinerary before she left, and it looked like I could connect up with her at a place called Waterfall – formerly a fish cannery, but now a fishing resort. When I arrived, there was no sign of Audrey, and the folks at the resort hadn’t seen her. The next spot on her itinerary was a Forest Service cabin on San Fernando Island –and when I paddled up the next day, there she was on the beach! She had been delayed by weather – not uncommon for SE Alaska – and had skipped Waterfall.
We split up so I could paddle out beyond Baker Island to look (unsuccessfully) for a hot spring, but agreed to meet up further along her route. I was paddling north in Tuxekan Passage, when I saw a float plane take off in the distance by Naukati Bay, a tiny logging camp. The plane began to climb, heading southeast, when it suddenly turned toward me and began to descend. It landed right in front of me, and motored alongside, where the pilot shouted out “Your friend is just ahead of you – paddle like hell and you can catch up!” I upped my pace and soon found Audrey waiting on the Naukati Bay pier. She had seen the plane land and take off again and wondered if it might be me that the pilot had seen. Together we visited the one-room camp store, and bought chocolate bars.
We paddled together for a few more days, until we arrived at Point Baker – there I would turn east to Wrangell Narrows and Petersburg, where I would catch the ferry back to Seattle, while Audrey continued north to Kake and beyond. She was missing a chart of the south part of Kupreanof Island, so we found a fisherman with the chart and I copied it with a pencil on the back of one of her other charts.
It was a great trip – at three weeks long, it is still the longest kayak trip I’ve made (so far!) –but if it hadn’t been for Audrey I wouldn’t have known so much about the area and what a fantastic place for paddling it is. One of these days I’ll retire too, and can start making some long paddles like you! Audrey began to teach her class in the evenings at UH Manoa, and I would help out. I could bring a handful of different inflatable kayaks for students to try out on the days where we went to the beach at Eve Anderson’s house at Malaekahana. After the classes started, there were a number of students who wanted to keep on paddling, so it seemed like a good idea to start a kayaking club. Hui Wa`a Kaukahi was born.
One of the students in Audrey’s first class was Linda Olingy, and she was on the club’s first neighbor island trip down Na Pali on Kaua`i. In 1983 we went on a trip to Europe (with inflatable kayaks, of course) and 28 years later we are still together. So, I have a lot to thank Audrey for. I always remember her mantra – “Go light, go cheap, go now.” It doesn’t seem possible that thirty years have gone by since that Alaska trip – many happy returns, Audrey!"
------------ Gary Budlong: "I found my soul in Pelekunu. The sound of the river rolling over the rocks; experiencing the sharp cliff like hills of the canyon valley; the deep, deep greens of the vegetation.
Mostly I remember the quiet dream like visitations of the spirits in the valley. Only on Moloka`i, only in Pelekunu is my soul open to visitation by myself and the spirits of the past and present. It was your inspiration (guidance) that led others and me there. Thank you for that and much, much more. OH! And by the way Happy Birthday. I hope the day is filled with the adventure and love you have enjoyed and shared with us. Aloha"
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Rusty Lillico: "In about 1980 or so, out of sheer boredom, I started taking night classes at UH Manoa; mostly esoteric stuff like computer programming and Hawaiian. The second year, while looking down the list of available classes, I spotted one labeled "Ocean Kayaking in Hawaii" or some such.
I had never had the slightest interest in kayaking, and I don't believe I had even heard of Ocean Kayaking before, but something in the description about "outer-island camping" piqued my interest, so I put my $25 on the counter and said I'll try anything once.
A week later I walked through the door and met Audrey Sutherland. To say that my life changed with that encounter would be a severe understatement. Audrey's unswerving message of self-reliance, illustrated with crazy stories about dragging a steel sink to a hidden valley on Molokai, encounters with Alaskan bears, and how to use an empty wine bladder for a pillow completely enthralled me. Recounted with the same quiet, almost droll voice of describing a bus trip downtown, she regaled us all with her vision of wilderness without barriers, the only fuel needed was desire, optimism and focus. Oh, and a health dose of non-linear ingenuity didn't hurt: her success at creative problem solving is legendary.
Flush with new resolve, I ran out and bought my first inflatable kayak, and haven't looked back once with regret. Thirty years on, I know now that it wasn't just the introduction to a funny new sport that opened my eyes to a new world and made such a believer out of me.
Audrey's calm, quiet approach to solving life's little problems (and to her, they're all only little) with humor and creativity was the real take-home from that class, and continues to inspire me today, whether camping on Piilani Beach or walking down the street. Happy Birthday, Audrey."
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Chuck Ehrhorn: "Although I have never known Audrey personally, I can say that she has been a tremendous influence on Jeanie and me through her book, Paddling Hawaii. On many of our early trips in the late 80’s and early 90’s, we didn’t leave without closely reading and re-reading sections of her book dealing with the trip we were planning, whether it was an Oahu day trip or a more adventurous off-island camping and paddle expedition. Her tips on what to pack, how to pack and the campsites were very informative. We would also make photocopies of the relevant pages and take them with us enclosed in waterproof sleeves. Thank you Audrey, and Happy Birthday" |
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